Just Add Wine | Ine Goossens & Ries van der Vlugt

Just Add Wine 

from Nature with Love 

Pure individual wines and winemakers standing up for individuality - call them pure-oldskool-distinctive-soulful and funky wines. Call it natural-Call it artisanal-Call it Organic.

most wanted wines

If you would like an allocation of our most wanted wines, which we hope we will have more of next year, please email us and let us know. We will ensure you get something.

REFERENTIES GASTRONOMIE

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Wat ambiance en keuken betreft zou een bedrijf als De Graaf van het Hoogveen natuurlijk lid moeten zijn van de Alliance Gastronomique Néerlandaise, het verbond waartoe de meeste toprestaurants behoren. Dat dit tot nu toe niet is gebeurd, heeft misschien te maken met communicatie en presentatie. De mailings bijvoorbeeld van dit restaurant demonstreren een zangerig taalgebruik, waarvan ook ik vaak de kriebels krijg.

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Er waren deze avond zeven gangen met zeven even voortreffelijke wijnen. Aan de muren hingen kleurenopnamen van geslaagde gerechten, die de culinaire fotograaf van Gourmet had gemaakt.

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Onze nationale wijnschrijver Hubrecht Duijker overweegt nu zijn volgende standaardwerk aan Piedmonte te wijden. Er werd weer buitengewoon goed gekookt in de Graaf van het Hoogveen. Dat vond ik niet alleen, maar ook mijn buurman Heinz Winkler, de chef-kok van Tantris in München. Heinz heeft drie sterren van de Michelin-gids en behoort daarmee tot de exclusieve groep topkoks als Bocuse, Chapel, Haeberlin en Vergé. Hij kreeg die drie sterren al op 31-jarige leeftijd en was daarmee de jongste kok, die ooit zo hoog scoorde. Heinz was dik tevreden over de prestaties van zijn jonge collega in Noordwijk.

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Speed tasting at Jean Arnaud with Lalou of DRC and Hugh Johnson. One of the most exciting and expensive burgundies ever likely to come my way.

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Vanuit Zwitserland was Hans Gerd Kübel naar de Lage Landen gekomen. Sinds 10 jaar heeft hij bij Zürich de zalmrokerij Balik. Kübel was 30 jaar acteur en regisseur in het theater. Hij vertolkte zowel Shakespeare, als ook de

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Heel onopvallend reisde Ine in 1976 mee met een culinair weekend, dat Thomas Lepeltak georganiseerd had in Engeland met Paul Bocuse als gast-kok en in het teken stond van de 50th anniversary of the coronation of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

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In april echter begon een bijzonder luxueus ingericht Koetshuis aan zijn tweede leven onder leiding van Ine Droogh-Goossens, ooit de drijvende kracht achter het restaurant De Graaf van het Hoogveen. Het ziet er naar uit dat zij de eigenzinnige strategie van Frisch voortzet. Ine Droogh-Goossens heeft een koers uitgestippeld en lijkt die vastberaden te volgen.

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De bekroonde mailing, gericht op het bedrijfsleven en potentiële gasten, bestaat uit een aankondiging voor een Kerstdiner met een antwoordkaart. Hierop werd een persoonlijke brief gezonden aan de geïnteresseerde gast met meer informatie. Ine Droogh-Goossens, directeur van 't Koetshuis in Rhenen is erin geslaagd op een uitnemende wijze een prachtig uitgevoerde mailing te verzorgen.

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  • Just Add Wine
    Ine Goossens & Ries van der Vlugt
    Feiko Clockstraat 139
  • 9665 BH Oude Pekela
  • T +31(0)597|675472 privé
  • T +31(0)597|675475 zaak
    M +31(0)620198832 Ries
    M +31(0)651416898 Ine

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RESTAURANT DE GRAAF VAN HET HOOGVEEN - NOORDWIJK AAN ZEE

THE NEW YORK WINE SPECTATOR'S GRAND AWARD 1987

REMARKS - AN INNOVATIVE EUROPEAN LIST

 

SHE HAD A DREAM

Just a 20-minute drive from Amsterdam is the town Noordwijk aan Zee. It is a popular seaside resort, located in the heart of Holland's tulip-growing region. It is also the site of the award-winning De Graaf van het Hoogveen Hotel and Restaurant, which is fast becoming a tourist attraction in its own right. Says Ine Droogh, who owns the establishment with her husband Joop "people used to come here just to see the flowers, now they come to sample our wines". Droogh recounts that her husband's parents opened the Hotel in Noordwijk more than 50 years ago. She joined the family in 1965, marrying Joop in 1969. Then in 1976, they decided to build a new restaurant. "It was always my dream to obtain the first Michelin star in the area", she says, "but to accomplish that goal, we knew we had to create something unique, both in terms of the menu and the wine list". Success came relatively quickly. Just five years after its debut, De Graaf van het Hoogveen was awarded a prize by Prince Bernhard of the Netherlands.The coveted Michelin star followed in 1982. Droogh affectionately calls the 15.000-bottle wine cellar her "hobby" and admits going to great extremes in order to master the intricacies of cellar management. "We started out by making regular tasting trips to France and Italy. On the side, I studied at the wine academy of the Netherlands, and ultimately journeyed to Bordeaux and Geisenheim for further instruction. I even worked in a wine shop for four months".
THE TURNING POINT
Through a rigid tasting schedule, she developed a palate worthy any professional. In the process, Droogh discovered that she had the knack to nearly total recall. Her photographic memory enabled her to compare wines mentally that she had tasted weeks or months earlier with samples before her in the glassA turning point for the restaurant cellar occurred when Droogh acquired a large private collection in Belgium from the Wijnmakelaars Unie. It formed the basis of the restaurant's fine and rare wine inventory - and took two full weeks to examine and evaluate. The final selection included entries like Calon-Ségur '67 ($82), Léoville-Las-Cases '62 ($125), Lynch-Bages '61 ($150) and Clos René '64 ($75). I was so impressed with what I had uncovered that I became even more discriminating thereafter", she says.
I AM WOMAN 
Proof positive of Droogh's determination are the tactics she has employed to secure the wines that corresponded to her new standards: "When I run out of classic vintages, I almost always manage to replace them by buying directly from the Château. Maybe it's because I am a woman, but I have yet to be turned down. I just show them our list, and they seem anxious to be included". When she decided to procure California wines for De Graaf van het Hoogveen, Droogh was undaunted by the fact they were unavailable in the Netherlands. She simply went to Germany and bought them there. Because she had to purchase her cache of California wines at a premium, Droogh thinks they are too expensive for casual consumption. Yet despite such prices as $55 for Etna Valley or Pine Ridge Oak Knoll Cuvée Chardonnay '84, $75 for Caymus '83 Cabernet Sauvignon and $65 for Phelps Syrah, Droogh says her customers are curious to try them out. No doubt she'll find a way to import directly before long. Although Droogh notes a recent vogue for Italian wines, she says her more sophisticated customers prefer French wines. Bordeaux in particular. "It's a bit like the old saying, ‘Burgundy is the drink of youth; Bordeaux is the wine of maturity', "she says. The adage notwithstanding, do not overlook a carefully compiled collection of wines from Provence, the Rhône, the Loire and Alsace. Approximately 140 clarets head the list, neatly organized by district and official classification. There are Crus Bourgeois such as Château Potensac '79 and Château Coufran '78 at $33 each. Château Dauzac '79, a 5th growth from Labarde, is $47, Château Haut-Bailly '79 is $57, Léoville-Las-Cases '76 is $62 and Lafite '73 is $125.
FIRST-RATE BURGUNDIES
tight assortment of red Burgundies from Remoriquet, Noëllat, Clair-Daü, Jayer and Tollot-Beaut demonstrate the effort taken to assemble first-rate estate bottlings at fair prices. Tollot-Beaut Savigny-Les-Beaune '83 is $43 and Jayer Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts '72 is $65. For celebrations, there's a magnum of '69 Clair-Daü Bonnes Mares at $220. A broad array of white Burgundies includes '83 Jean Vachet Montagny at $30, '85 Hubert Lamy St.-Aubin Les Frionnes at $38 and Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Chevenottes '83 at $52. Also, worth noting is a full page of Rhône whites, including seven vintages of Châteauu Grillet.
 FOODPAIRING
To encourage experimentation De Graaf van het Hoogveen regularly offers special degustation menus with as many as six different courses and wines to match. "Our aim is to provide guests with as many varied options as possible'" says Droogh. "This way, you might have a taste of France, Germany, Italy, Spain and California all-in-one evening".
DOMESTIC BRANDS
No fine meal would be complete without a selection of after-dinner drinks, to be enjoyed, perhaps, with a Dutch cigar. In fact, De Graaf van het Hoogveen offers an incredible 14-page list of digestives available by the glass. There are dozens of Alsatian Eaux de vie, fine Cognac and vintage Armagnac, Italian grappa and even single-malt whiskeys. And in case you left your cigars behind, there are three pages of Havana and domestic brands to choose from.

Market Watch New York December 1987

Marvin R. Shanken